|CARPIN with "JT"|
|Fishing Pressured Waters||River Fishing for Carp||Snag & Weed Rigs||The Rig Bin||Conservation|
It was once said, "don’t bother fishing for carp, because life is too short"|
But thanks to anglers such as Richard Walker, Jack Hilton and others, carp fishing is the fastest growing part of angling. Specimens fishing for carp, pike and catfish along with other specimen are what more and more anglers are turning too. Fisheries are also changing with more becoming carp fisheries or including some large carp along with other specimen fish.The equipment needed to fish for these specimen fish is also being introduced all the time, with claims that your chances of the capture of such specimens, will be greatly helped by the use of their products. Most of these claims are correct and do aid the angler, but there are some things on the market, which catch the angler rather than the carp.This is where we hope this site will help, as we take a good look at some of the equipment, which we feel will help you in your quest for carp.We will be looking at everything that you will need from the comfort of the angler in bedchairs to bivvies, sleeping bags to cookers. Also the luggage and barrows to get your gear to your swim, and the gear you will need to capture that personal best carp, rods, reels, landing nets to unhooking mats. And not forgetting that mine field which is Rigs and Bait.
So welcome to Carper’s Corner here on the Essex Angler’s web site.
FISHING PRESSURED WATERS|
Carp waters are now becoming more pressured, as soon as carp of any size are added to waters, the pressure increase’s ten fold. Some of my local waters, which are mostly stocked with carp, have been more pressured over the last six years and over the last two or three years the more conventional instant approaches have lost a great deal of their catching potential.
The three most productive methods on these waters are long baiting campaigns with food baits carrying a personalised label, very heavy baiting with small or very big baits (which are really a lot more productive than standard size Boilies) or fishing pop-ups close to the bottom on very small and tightly-baited spots (PVA bags filled with chopped Boilies, pellets and or small particles).
Then there is the rig, for me inline leads, combined with short hooklinks, are the most efficient ones on these waters today. Another thing is that carp are often scared off by tight lines which they detect in a baited area. So flying back leads help to get the right result Carp on the bank.
River Fishing for Carp|
Unlike fishing lakes for carp, river fishing technically means you have to deal with strong currents. When it comes to rigs this factor changes the normal rigging that you would have on a lake.
Firstly you must make sure you rig stays in one place, if the carp are at distance out this will mean the use of heavy leads and, even then the current will cause matter to accumulate on the main line. The current will cause the main line to pull the lead at an increasing rate. So you need to use even heavier leads and to be sure the rig does not move.
This can be compensated by using pear shaped leads, which gives better grip on the bottom. By casting down stream and plenty of slack line (with a tight line even the heaviest leads will move) the current will take up the slack line within seconds, but the final pressure on the main line will be less.
What weight leads you need will be down to the circumstances you are dealing with, in some extreme situations, even the use of a 5oz lead will not be enough, so the use of a combined inline lead of say 3oz and a pear of 3oz or more can be better than the use of just one lead.
The use of heavy leads combined with in-turned point-type hooks of size 4 does not cause more damage to the carp’s mouth as some may be worried about.
When fishing in currant waters a 20 to 24 inch hook link work much better than the standard 8 to 12 inch.
The use of large pop-ups are best fished straight from the lead, as most of the river carps natural food consists of moving items, causing them to attack the bait rather hoover up baits as with lake carp
Pop-ups are by far the best baits to use in moving water and even if you feel you don’t wish to fish off the lead, the best idea is to allow the pop-up to be at least 2 inches off the bottom, this pop-up will move because of the current which will add to the attractiveness of the hook bait.
Snag and Weed Rigs
The Basics of this are quite simple, fishing at range of say up to about 80yrds and making sure I get above a hooked fish as quickly as possible. I use my standard swivel lead rig, but with a slightly heavier hooklink (25lb) which I feel is strong enough and a size 4 hook the safety bead makes sure the lead snaps off easily when caught up in a snag.|
Fishing very tight to lilies or weeds, with a chance the rig ends up in it. I will use the same rig but using a pop-up 1-2 inches from the bottom, or even a little higher where needed. If in easy casting range, a P.V.A.bag with some freebies and pellets can help in case of dense bottom weed.
|Here in the rig bin I will be looking at some of the safety rigs on the market and how to apply them to your set-up.So let’s have a look in the tackle box.|
|So what do we need, hook length let’s go for a braid. One of my favourites is the edge from Hutchinson, this is a quality braid.|
|Now for a hook, a size 5 from the E.S.P. range (Barbless) a size 10 swivel from the Nash range and a safety clip also from Nash and a tube of rig glue for FOX what a mixture!|
Take about 12” of Braid, form and tie a loop at one end of the braid. You will now need a bait and baiting needle, taking care attach the bait to the needle.|
Attach the baited needle to the braid and push the bait from the needle to the braid. Once the bait is on the braid remove the needle and pass a Boilie stop through the loop and pull the bait back to the stop.
Pass the other end of the braid through the eye of the hook and lay the baited end of the braid along the top of the hook, now whip the braid around the hook shank between 5 and 9 times towards the bend in the hook.
Now pass the end back through the eye in the hook and pull tight.
Add rig glue to the knotless knot, the bait should be sitting just proud of the hook bend. Once the rig glue has taken, you may add if you wish a small piece of rig tubing. Now take the loose end of braid and pass through one eye of the size 10 swivel twice and tie a grinner knot.
Now finish by adding a small drop of rig glue to the finished knot.
|Here is the finished rig, with bait attached; the set-up is a snowman, one pop-up on top of a bottom bait.|
|Now to finish off the set-up, our main line is SOFT STEEL from Fox|
|This is a quality mono line at very affordable price; the one we are using is of 12lb b.s. Our hook length is about 8” so we need between 10 and 12” of tubing on the main line, add the rubber stop from the safety clip, now add the safety clip (these are from Korda) and now attach the end of the size 10 swivel and rig to the main line, using a 8 turn water knot or grinner, attach you lead to the safety clip. There are also very good quality safety inline lead systems from both FOX and NASH which allow the lead to leave the set-up if the carp becomes snagged, which 9 times out of 10 allows you to land your carp as you are still in contact with the fish due to only losing the lead, on the other hand should you snap off, the lead then leaves the rig without the carp dragging it around, less harm to the carp and it can soon get rid of the barbless hook. Think SAFE CARPIN!|
|Rigs keep it simple|
|Here is a very simple rig, 6” hook link size 6 hook (barbless) knotless knot hair 15mm snowman, at the other end size 10 swivel in a safety clip (korda) with a 2oz pear bomb attached to the safety clip. This enables the carp to shed the bomb should it become snagged. This photo show’s the rig with a stringer of 15mm Boilies.|
|Here you see the same rig ready for casting with pva bag of pellets and broken Boilies. This set-up is just right for snagged areas, which includes lilies.|
|Hook lengths should be from 6” to 12”, the hair should be anything up to 2” in length even if only fishing with single Boilie, sometimes the longer the hair the less spooked the carp will be when hovering up your bait.|
|Checkout our rigs page there are some simple drawings there to help you in making some simple rigs in your quest to catch carp.|
In this section we will be looking at the care of carp, the equipment and the care you should take when handling carp aiding conservation for others to enjoy there carpin and mostly for the carp itself.|
The first thing you should remember is this is the most important part of carp or any type of fishing.
Carp Landing Nets.
When you first go to buy a landing net for carp fishing look for the size of net first, you should look for 36” or 42” this is ample spread for the carp, also for the depth of net, the deeper the better. Quality nets and handles are best, buy from the quality companies Solar, Fox, Nash, Hutchinson and North Western these are all of the highest quality and you will find the are very reliable too.
Along with your first rod and reel plus landing net this is something you should not leave the shop without, the unhooking mat. Again, these come in all shapes and sizes and if your pocket can run to it look for the biggest you can afford, with that said I have known carpers who could not afford good quality ones to go to Mothercare and buy one or even two baby changing mats, which make a very good unhooking mat. The quality ones again come from the companies that I have already listed, some of the better ones have handles which allow you to weigh your carp and return them to the water on or in them. (note: even a blow up lilo will make a good unhooking mat) also please make sure your unhooking mat is wet before putting you carp on it.
Keep your Carp wet
Photography is where a lot of anglers seen to forget the carp care side of things. They have just landed a new personal best and all reason goes out the window, they must get the photo. You can normally see as the carp rolls into your waiting landing net if it’s a big fish, so then leave it in the water. Sort out your tripod camera, unhooking mat, scales weigh sling and the like including Klinik before you remove the net from the water. Keep your carp covered as much as possible when on the bank and KEEP IT WET!
By using common sense when you have hooked that carp and the care you give it on the bank cuts down the stress for both the fish and you, you will enjoy your fishing much more and the young lad who has been standing there watching you will have also learnt something, because of the care you have taken will mean he also one day may land that carp Care and Conservation are two very important items in you tackle box, make sure you take them to the bank when you go fishing.
||PEGS OF INTEREST|