|COARSE FISHING WITH THE ESSEX ANGLER|
|Using a pop up||Detecting Bites||Leger Rods||What Lead||BackLeading||Safety Clips|
Legering is a good way of presenting bait on the bottom at distance and when fishing out of the range of a float rig.
On saying that, you dont give it so much welly that it disappears into the unknown.
An average distance is about between 20-60 yds, depending on where the features
are and where you want to fish, i.e. gravel bars, or avoiding weed beds,
or getting to inexcessable margins on the opposite side of the water,
assuming you are not fishing a very large lake, of course.
With some rigs the fish hook themselves when taking the bait. As the bait is taken the fish will feel the weight and bolt off.|
A variety of legering styles have been adapted to combat different water conditions. For example, if fishing in and around weed or very silty bottoms, the "Helicopter rig" is perfect as does not tangle.
|The bait can either be presented directly on the bottom, or just off the bottom by using a "pop-up". The "pop-up" is a floating bait that raise's the hooklength so it floats just off the bottom. You can make your own pop-up easily by cutting rig foam to the size of the hookbait and adding it to the hook with the bait. Add a little flavouring to the foam to disguise it a little.|
When legering, no floats are used. So how do you detect a bite ?|
Bites are detected in a number of way's. Set your rod so that its at an angle to the bank of the water. The rod tip will visibly twitch and bend when you get a bite.
There is also a "swinger" and "dangler or bobbin". These are attached to your bank stick or rod pod and is clipped onto your line.
When a bite is detected,the arm or bobbin will go up, or down.
If it goes up,then it means the fish is going away from you.If it drops down,then the fish is coming towards you. Either way, strike !
|Setting up the indicators depend on how far out you are fishing. The further out you fish, the more slack line takes you will get.|
This is known as "Drop backs" and are caused by the fish grabbing your bait and either swimming directly toward you or kiting in an arc. When drop back bites are expected, a loaded indicator will always give a more positive indication than a light indicator.
This is very unlikely to happen if fishing at short range so the indicator can be set on a long drop with the line between the rod tip and rig hanging slack.
Adjust the sliding weight on the swinger to counteract any side wind.
Drop back bites are more likely to occur when fishing at medium distance 0f around 60 - 80 yards.Therefore a fully loaded swinger or hanger is advisable by moving the weight between half way and two-thirds along the Swinger arm. Any slackening of line will allow the swinger arm or bobbin to drop, or in the case of a run, the line will be fulled off the swinger completely.
|Then there is the more suffisticated bite alarm.|
This is attached to the bank stick or pod with the line runningthrough it. It gives out a series of audible bleeps when a bite is detected.
Rods for leger fishing, are usually between 9ft and 12ft and should have a test curve of at least 1¼lb depending on what you are fishing for.
Light-action rod (general purpose leger rod) -Rod lengths of 9ft - 11ft used for distances to around 40m on still waters and slow moving waters, and for close-in work on faster moving water.|
The best set-ups for this type are 2lb - 3lb main line, 12oz - 2lb hooklength, and bombs/small feeders up to about 0.75oz.
Medium-action rod -Lengths of 11ft - 12ft for distances of about 40m - 60m on stillwaters and slow- moving rivers. The extra length is needed to pick up the line quicker when fishing at distance, or to keep as much line out of moving water to minimise drag on the line.|
The best set-up for this would be 3lb - 4lb mainline, 1lb - 3lb hooklengths, 0.5 - 1.5oz bombs and medium feeders.
|Heavy-action rod -A 11ft - 12ft for fast flowing rivers, with a 6lb+ mainline, 2 - 4lb hooklengths, and 1 - 3oz bombs and feeders. On tackle such as this, fish will often hook themselves on the weight of the bomb, or will give unmistakable bites as they dislodge the bomb or feeder.|
Leads come in various shapes and sizes to allow defferent techneques.
Here is a guide to choosing a lead for the right situation.The leads shown are from the "Korda Range"
|SWIVEL DISTANCE LEAD||Maintains absolute stability for longer casts and because of this it keeps a straighter line as it flies out into the lake. This means it is also less affected by cross winds.|
|SWIVEL PEAR LEAD||Creates a more instant bolt effect due to its condensed shape. Its tapered design gives it the perfect compromise between hooking efficiency and anti tangle.|
Good all-round lead, ideal for short-medium range and for marker float and feature finding rigs.
| FLAT SWIVEL PEAR LEAD||The dumpy design gives the hooklink less chance to tangle. Difficult for carp to roll the lead on lake bottom.The leads wide sides grip the lake bottom, providing better hooking properties.|
Again the tapered design reduces tangles.
Ideal for short to medium range fishing and fishing sides of bars, marginal shelves, rivers etc.
| FLATLINER DISTANCE LEAD||An anti tangle lead due to its tapered back also allowing it to be pulled through weed easier when playing fish in weedy conditions.|
Its four sided design prevents carp from rolling lead on hard bottoms.
Ideal for medium to long range bolt rigs.
| FLATLINER PEAR LEAD||An in-line lead that gives better self hooking properties than pendant style leads while also greatly reducing tangles on the cast plus it tends to pick up less weed on the retrieve.Very stable in the air when cast, therefore improving distance and accuracy.|
WHAT IS BACKLEADING? - This is a method of "pinning" your mainline on the bottom after casting. Mainly used in situations where boats and swimmers are present in the water. Backleads are also usefull if you are constantly getting line bites.|
It works by clipping the backlead onto the mainline and allowing it to slide down the line until it sits on the bottom.This is done after casting and before tightening up the line.
It is important you know the contours of the lake bed for the backlead to work effeciantly i.e. gravel bars etc.
You can use any number of backleads if needed, but normally one or two are enough.
When legering it is imperative to put the fish's safety top of the list.
If the fish becomes snagged and breaks you off, is it safe to assume that the fish will not become teathered and have to drag your lead around until, (in some case's) it dies!.
A good angler is also a thoughtful and caring angler and thats why it is important to put the fish safety first.
There are many "safety rigs" that can be used nowadays, as illustrated on the rigs page, but now you should take it one step further by using a "safety lead clip".
This is a plastic clip that a pendant lead of up to 5oz clips onto and in the event of the fish running you into a snag and the lead getting caught in weed, the lead will simply discharge itself from the clip and fall free so you can continue to play the fish safetly.
"Korda" was one of, if not the first, to market these clips.
|Test the rig to ensure it will release properly.|
To do this hold the hooklink and the lead and pull them apart.If the swivel comes out first, loosen the tail rubber so its not so tight over the safety clip. Then lead should then pull off first.
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